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COCKATIELS
+12
deckard1313
joms@cuenca
sweetlady143
jet
daphiel217
isko_3
acruz
Bong 523
leotino
pedro
lutinoman
Dammam
16 posters
Page 1 of 2
Page 1 of 2 • 1, 2 
COCKATIELS
by Dammam Mon Mar 23, 2009 4:16 pm
Description
The cockatiel is a small parrot of the Cacatuidae family. Healthy adult cockatiels usually weigh between 2.8 - 4.4 oz (78 and 125 grams). Some cockatiel mutations, particularly some lutinos, tend to be rather small-boned birds. They may weigh between 2.8 - 3.2 oz (78 and 90 grams). Some cockatiels selectively bred for competitions may way between 3.9 - 4.4 oz (110 and 125 grams).
• Note: Bird weight is an important indicator of good health or health problems (please click here for diseases associated with weight gain or weight loss). Monitoring your pet's weight regularly, establishing a healthy base weight and keeping an eye on changes are recommended as part of their general care regiment. Your vet should be alerted to any weight deviations that are not in line with natural weight fluctuations.
Like some other cockatoos, as for example the Sulphur-crested Cockatoo, the cockatiel has an erectible crest. Cockatiels and cockatoos in general also share other features, such as the facial feathers covering the sides of the beak, which are rarely - if ever - found outside the Cacatuidae family. In contrast to most cockatoos, the cockatiel has long tail feathers, roughly making up half of its total length. The cockatiel's distinctive pointed yellow crest is held erect when startled or excited, while a crest slightly tilted indicates a relaxed state of mind.
The plumage is generally mid-grey, lighter underneath, with an orange cheek patch and a prominent white blaze on the wings. A row of yellowish spots can be found underneath the wings of female cockatiels, but not on the males. Some other mutations exist, such as the Lutino, which is a light yellow color. Female Lutinos also have barred tail feathers. Both the cock and the hen have yellow facial feathers: the female has a yellow wash around the beak and eye, in the male, yellow covers most of the head and the fore part of the crest. Male cockatiels are very protective and nurturing of their offspring and are known to be very capable of raising their newborns if the mother is unable to.
Cockatiel lifespans in captivity are generally given as 15-20 years, though it is sometimes given as short as 12-15 years and there are anecdotes of cockatiels living as long as 30 years.
Available Mutations:
Pet cockatiels have been bred to have many different coloration patterns. Featured above (Soupy) and below (Cico) are normal greys. The "wild" natural grey cockatiels are said to be the hardiest and smartest of all. This might have been true for the longest time, as a lot inbreeding was done to produce mutations. Many color mutations are now well established and may very well be as hardy and smart as the original greys. The opinions differ as much as the personalities of the great numbers of cockatiels out there. Over the years, I have owned very smart mutation tiels as well normal greys. I would choose a cockatiel on the basis of its personality over its coloration any time.
Available color variants include Lutino, Pearl, Cinnamon, Pied, Silver, and Whiteface (mutation photos can be viewed on this webpage) and appear both singly and in combinations such as lutino pearl, whiteface pied, and the very rare whiteface lutino which is the technical term for albino cockatiels. There have also been reports of an 'Olive' variant. Albino cockatiels (who have no color pigments) are relatively rare and more expensive than other colorations -- although they have become more available in recent years and the price went down substantially since then. Whereas all other cockatiels have black eyes, the whiteface lutino has pink / red eyes, pink toenails, and a pink beak. Whereas most mutations persist into adulthood for all cockatiels, certain mutations like pearl are molted out in the males and retained in the adult females. Nearly all whiteface lutinos are females, a factor of the sex-linked mutations that create the combination.
Breeding Cockatiels
Cockatiel breeding is not especially difficult, but it will require your time and commitment, in addition to a lot of preparation.
Before getting started, there are some things to consider:
Pet or Breeder?
Owners should realize that their cockatiels can't be both good breeders / parents and remain devoted pets to them. Mating, nesting and raising a family will keep them busy and, as a general rule, they will concentrate on that and loose interest in their human care takers.
Of course, there are - as always - exceptions to this rule.
Old Enough?
The first requirement is that the cockatiels are old enough to breed.
Cockatiels are physically able to breed when they are about 9 to 12 months old; however, sexual maturity is only reached when they are 15 to 24 months old.
With younger birds, breeding success is less likely and more problems can be expected, such as eggbinding (which could be fatal to your hen) or poor parenting skills resulting in babies being abused or abandoned; or simply being unhealthy.
Breeders will often try to pair up experienced breeders with the inexperienced - to allow the younger one to be guided by the know-how of the older. This is a good practice to follow.
True Pair?
There will be no successful breeding unless you have a true and compatible pair.
Same-sex cockatiels will go through the motions of breeding. Two males will mate and work their nesting box as a true pair would - except no eggs will be laid. Two females will do likewise, except both females will generally lay eggs - which means you are going to have 8 or more eggs in the nesting box. If you see that many eggs, you should realize that most likely you have two females in which case the eggs are going to be infertile. If this is so, do not remove the eggs. Allow the females to continue to sit on them until they themselves loose interest. The reason being that if you remove the eggs, they will continue to lay new ones -- depleting themselves of minerals and calcium, potentially resulting in health problems.
Unrelated Stock?
It is very poor practice to breed related birds. It increases the chance of genetic defects - especially if no new genetic material has been introduced into an aviary for some time and related birds have been allowed to breed for generations.
The result can be weak or sickly babies, or babies with missing or deformed toes or feet, twisted backs, bald spots (as is often seen in lutinos) and internal genetic defects that can cause the death of the chicks.
The reason why breeders continue to pair up related birds is often availability or the desire to develop / attain certain mutations. With recessive genes, both male and female need to carry a genetic trait if they are to produce a certain mutation. The simplest way to attain that is by breeding related birds. Yet, it is not a recommended practice. Every effort should be made to find the desired traits in unrelated birds. Swapping breeding stock with another breeder presents itself as an option.
• Note: New birds should be tested and quarantined before placing them into your aviary to minimize the risk of introducing a disease that could devastate your flock.
Physical Condition:
The breeders should be in great physical condition before allowing them to breed. The plumage should be clean and smooth; eyes clear; disposition lively and they should be of good weight.
You should never allow an overweight hen or cock to breed. Obesity in females increases the chance of egg binding or other health problems. One way to tell if a bird is overweight is to check the tiel's breast bone. In an overweight bird, you will feel a lot of flesh on each side of the breast bone. In a skinny bird, you will feel indentations / hard bones on each side (meaning you feel only the bones, no or very little flesh). The breast bone will be very prominent in an underweight bird, while you can hardly feel it in an overweight cockatiel.
If underweight, one concern could be disease -- especially if the cockatiel had access to plenty of food. Maybe the mate didn't allow the other to feed. In which case, several food dishes in different areas should be provided. Although -- considering that you ought to feed a variety of soft foods as well as a good seed mix, that shouldn't happen, unless the food dishes are too closely situated. This all being said, although having seen this behavior of not allowing the mate to feed in other parrot species, I have not seen it in my cockatiels. But I am sure it exists.
If your bird is overweight, a change in diet should be discussed with your vet.
In any case, neither underweight nor obese bird should be put into a breeding program.
Planning for the Chicks:
Last, but not least, when breeding activities commence, it is time to line up homes for your chicks.
Decide Not To Breed or Reduce Breeding Activity?
In their natural habitat, cockatiels usually raise chicks in the spring and the late summer. In captivity, when food is plenty and conditions are optimal, they have been known to "double- or even triple-clutch" -- which means raising one clutch immediately after the other. This prolific behavior can be detrimental to their health and should be discouraged, as it depletes them of necessary nutrients and causes physical exhaustion, potentially resulting in serious health problems - especially for the female; such as egg-binding, prolapsed uterus, egg peritonitis or even death caused by breeding related problems.
It is recommended to only allow your bird to produce two clutches per season - better yet, only two clutches a year. But more often than not, hens will get started on laying a new clutch while they still have chicks in the nest box. If this happens, you may want to consider pulling the chicks so that the parents can concentrate on the new clutch; or at least provide supplemental feedings to them.
At the same time, if you want to stop birds from breeding, the following options are available:
• Remove the nesting box
• Reduce hours of light in the bird area. 10 to 12 hours of light is needed to bring cockatiels into breeding condition. Fewer hours of light a day (basically simulating "winter" non-breeding season) will reduce the urge to breed.
• Decrease Vitamin E consumption (which stimulates breeding)
• I truly dislike the practice of separating the male and the female to stop them from breeding. They are a bonded pair and it is, in my opinion, cruel to do so.
The cockatiel is a small parrot of the Cacatuidae family. Healthy adult cockatiels usually weigh between 2.8 - 4.4 oz (78 and 125 grams). Some cockatiel mutations, particularly some lutinos, tend to be rather small-boned birds. They may weigh between 2.8 - 3.2 oz (78 and 90 grams). Some cockatiels selectively bred for competitions may way between 3.9 - 4.4 oz (110 and 125 grams).
• Note: Bird weight is an important indicator of good health or health problems (please click here for diseases associated with weight gain or weight loss). Monitoring your pet's weight regularly, establishing a healthy base weight and keeping an eye on changes are recommended as part of their general care regiment. Your vet should be alerted to any weight deviations that are not in line with natural weight fluctuations.
Like some other cockatoos, as for example the Sulphur-crested Cockatoo, the cockatiel has an erectible crest. Cockatiels and cockatoos in general also share other features, such as the facial feathers covering the sides of the beak, which are rarely - if ever - found outside the Cacatuidae family. In contrast to most cockatoos, the cockatiel has long tail feathers, roughly making up half of its total length. The cockatiel's distinctive pointed yellow crest is held erect when startled or excited, while a crest slightly tilted indicates a relaxed state of mind.
The plumage is generally mid-grey, lighter underneath, with an orange cheek patch and a prominent white blaze on the wings. A row of yellowish spots can be found underneath the wings of female cockatiels, but not on the males. Some other mutations exist, such as the Lutino, which is a light yellow color. Female Lutinos also have barred tail feathers. Both the cock and the hen have yellow facial feathers: the female has a yellow wash around the beak and eye, in the male, yellow covers most of the head and the fore part of the crest. Male cockatiels are very protective and nurturing of their offspring and are known to be very capable of raising their newborns if the mother is unable to.
Cockatiel lifespans in captivity are generally given as 15-20 years, though it is sometimes given as short as 12-15 years and there are anecdotes of cockatiels living as long as 30 years.
Available Mutations:
Pet cockatiels have been bred to have many different coloration patterns. Featured above (Soupy) and below (Cico) are normal greys. The "wild" natural grey cockatiels are said to be the hardiest and smartest of all. This might have been true for the longest time, as a lot inbreeding was done to produce mutations. Many color mutations are now well established and may very well be as hardy and smart as the original greys. The opinions differ as much as the personalities of the great numbers of cockatiels out there. Over the years, I have owned very smart mutation tiels as well normal greys. I would choose a cockatiel on the basis of its personality over its coloration any time.
Available color variants include Lutino, Pearl, Cinnamon, Pied, Silver, and Whiteface (mutation photos can be viewed on this webpage) and appear both singly and in combinations such as lutino pearl, whiteface pied, and the very rare whiteface lutino which is the technical term for albino cockatiels. There have also been reports of an 'Olive' variant. Albino cockatiels (who have no color pigments) are relatively rare and more expensive than other colorations -- although they have become more available in recent years and the price went down substantially since then. Whereas all other cockatiels have black eyes, the whiteface lutino has pink / red eyes, pink toenails, and a pink beak. Whereas most mutations persist into adulthood for all cockatiels, certain mutations like pearl are molted out in the males and retained in the adult females. Nearly all whiteface lutinos are females, a factor of the sex-linked mutations that create the combination.
Breeding Cockatiels
Cockatiel breeding is not especially difficult, but it will require your time and commitment, in addition to a lot of preparation.
Before getting started, there are some things to consider:
Pet or Breeder?
Owners should realize that their cockatiels can't be both good breeders / parents and remain devoted pets to them. Mating, nesting and raising a family will keep them busy and, as a general rule, they will concentrate on that and loose interest in their human care takers.
Of course, there are - as always - exceptions to this rule.
Old Enough?
The first requirement is that the cockatiels are old enough to breed.
Cockatiels are physically able to breed when they are about 9 to 12 months old; however, sexual maturity is only reached when they are 15 to 24 months old.
With younger birds, breeding success is less likely and more problems can be expected, such as eggbinding (which could be fatal to your hen) or poor parenting skills resulting in babies being abused or abandoned; or simply being unhealthy.
Breeders will often try to pair up experienced breeders with the inexperienced - to allow the younger one to be guided by the know-how of the older. This is a good practice to follow.
True Pair?
There will be no successful breeding unless you have a true and compatible pair.
Same-sex cockatiels will go through the motions of breeding. Two males will mate and work their nesting box as a true pair would - except no eggs will be laid. Two females will do likewise, except both females will generally lay eggs - which means you are going to have 8 or more eggs in the nesting box. If you see that many eggs, you should realize that most likely you have two females in which case the eggs are going to be infertile. If this is so, do not remove the eggs. Allow the females to continue to sit on them until they themselves loose interest. The reason being that if you remove the eggs, they will continue to lay new ones -- depleting themselves of minerals and calcium, potentially resulting in health problems.
Unrelated Stock?
It is very poor practice to breed related birds. It increases the chance of genetic defects - especially if no new genetic material has been introduced into an aviary for some time and related birds have been allowed to breed for generations.
The result can be weak or sickly babies, or babies with missing or deformed toes or feet, twisted backs, bald spots (as is often seen in lutinos) and internal genetic defects that can cause the death of the chicks.
The reason why breeders continue to pair up related birds is often availability or the desire to develop / attain certain mutations. With recessive genes, both male and female need to carry a genetic trait if they are to produce a certain mutation. The simplest way to attain that is by breeding related birds. Yet, it is not a recommended practice. Every effort should be made to find the desired traits in unrelated birds. Swapping breeding stock with another breeder presents itself as an option.
• Note: New birds should be tested and quarantined before placing them into your aviary to minimize the risk of introducing a disease that could devastate your flock.
Physical Condition:
The breeders should be in great physical condition before allowing them to breed. The plumage should be clean and smooth; eyes clear; disposition lively and they should be of good weight.
You should never allow an overweight hen or cock to breed. Obesity in females increases the chance of egg binding or other health problems. One way to tell if a bird is overweight is to check the tiel's breast bone. In an overweight bird, you will feel a lot of flesh on each side of the breast bone. In a skinny bird, you will feel indentations / hard bones on each side (meaning you feel only the bones, no or very little flesh). The breast bone will be very prominent in an underweight bird, while you can hardly feel it in an overweight cockatiel.
If underweight, one concern could be disease -- especially if the cockatiel had access to plenty of food. Maybe the mate didn't allow the other to feed. In which case, several food dishes in different areas should be provided. Although -- considering that you ought to feed a variety of soft foods as well as a good seed mix, that shouldn't happen, unless the food dishes are too closely situated. This all being said, although having seen this behavior of not allowing the mate to feed in other parrot species, I have not seen it in my cockatiels. But I am sure it exists.
If your bird is overweight, a change in diet should be discussed with your vet.
In any case, neither underweight nor obese bird should be put into a breeding program.
Planning for the Chicks:
Last, but not least, when breeding activities commence, it is time to line up homes for your chicks.
Decide Not To Breed or Reduce Breeding Activity?
In their natural habitat, cockatiels usually raise chicks in the spring and the late summer. In captivity, when food is plenty and conditions are optimal, they have been known to "double- or even triple-clutch" -- which means raising one clutch immediately after the other. This prolific behavior can be detrimental to their health and should be discouraged, as it depletes them of necessary nutrients and causes physical exhaustion, potentially resulting in serious health problems - especially for the female; such as egg-binding, prolapsed uterus, egg peritonitis or even death caused by breeding related problems.
It is recommended to only allow your bird to produce two clutches per season - better yet, only two clutches a year. But more often than not, hens will get started on laying a new clutch while they still have chicks in the nest box. If this happens, you may want to consider pulling the chicks so that the parents can concentrate on the new clutch; or at least provide supplemental feedings to them.
At the same time, if you want to stop birds from breeding, the following options are available:
• Remove the nesting box
• Reduce hours of light in the bird area. 10 to 12 hours of light is needed to bring cockatiels into breeding condition. Fewer hours of light a day (basically simulating "winter" non-breeding season) will reduce the urge to breed.
• Decrease Vitamin E consumption (which stimulates breeding)
• I truly dislike the practice of separating the male and the female to stop them from breeding. They are a bonded pair and it is, in my opinion, cruel to do so.
Dammam- Global Moderator
Re: COCKATIELS
by lutinoman Mon Mar 23, 2009 4:26 pm
Vice Nice Info bro Jerry
Yung cockatiel ko kasi naka 2nd clutch na pero puro eggs wala nabubuo...
Can this case be a case of related stock meaning magkapatid?
or possible din ba nabubulabog sila
Yung cockatiel ko kasi naka 2nd clutch na pero puro eggs wala nabubuo...
Can this case be a case of related stock meaning magkapatid?
or possible din ba nabubulabog sila
lutinoman- PPO Brigadier General
Re: COCKATIELS
by Dammam Mon Mar 23, 2009 4:39 pm
lutinoman wrote:Vice Nice Info bro Jerry
Yung cockatiel ko kasi naka 2nd clutch na pero puro eggs wala nabubuo...
Can this case be a case of related stock meaning magkapatid?
or possible din ba nabubulabog sila
puwede or maaaring tomboy pareho (hehehe female)
Dammam- Global Moderator
Re: COCKATIELS
by lutinoman Mon Mar 23, 2009 5:09 pm
Dammam wrote:lutinoman wrote:Vice Nice Info bro Jerry
Yung cockatiel ko kasi naka 2nd clutch na pero puro eggs wala nabubuo...
Can this case be a case of related stock meaning magkapatid?
or possible din ba nabubulabog sila
puwede or maaaring tomboy pareho (hehehe female)
hehehehe....bro pansin ko lang...ang hilig mo sa "C"...cockatiel at canary...
lutinoman- PPO Brigadier General
Re: COCKATIELS
by pedro Mon Mar 23, 2009 8:20 pm
sa pagkakaalam ko po walang tomboy na cockatiel sa albs lang po un yata..tama po ba ko?
pasali po ha..
hilig ko din po cockatiel eh..
pasali po ha..
hilig ko din po cockatiel eh..
pedro- PPO Private
Re: COCKATIELS
by leotino Thu Mar 26, 2009 10:45 am
Pasali rin ako d2... Actually, tiels lang ang pets ko, and as of now I have 9 tiels at home, with the latest clutch started to hatch yesterday. Most of them are lutinos, coz, my breeders are lutinos. naka 2 clutches na sila, with the third, kahapon nagstart mag hatch.n
Out of the nine, 3 are tamed, at ung 2 sumisipol na to the tune of final fantasy ( nd nga lang perfect...)
E2 pic nung 3:
Out of the nine, 3 are tamed, at ung 2 sumisipol na to the tune of final fantasy ( nd nga lang perfect...)
E2 pic nung 3:
leotino- PPO Private
Re: COCKATIELS
by Dammam Thu Mar 26, 2009 11:01 am
leotino wrote:Pasali rin ako d2... Actually, tiels lang ang pets ko, and as of now I have 9 tiels at home, with the latest clutch started to hatch yesterday. Most of them are lutinos, coz, my breeders are lutinos. naka 2 clutches na sila, with the third, kahapon nagstart mag hatch.n
Out of the nine, 3 are tamed, at ung 2 sumisipol na to the tune of final fantasy ( nd nga lang perfect...)
E2 pic nung 3:
wow naman.... napagtigayaan mong sumipol with a tune ha. ang mga tiels ko di maturuan dahil sa dami at magkakadikit kasi kulungan nila ng iba't ibang ibon.
Congrats Sir!
Dammam- Global Moderator
Latest weaners... pwedeng pang out..
by leotino Mon Mar 30, 2009 9:56 am
These are my latest chix na ka wean pa lang. Pwede ring pang out. Anak sila nung lutino pearl hen ko.
[u]
[u]
leotino- PPO Private
Re: COCKATIELS
by Bong 523 Thu Apr 02, 2009 7:38 am
Sir Jerry pasali po dito , Sir Lutinoman parehas po tayo ng case ng tiels 2 times na bugoklutinoman wrote:Vice Nice Info bro Jerry
Yung cockatiel ko kasi naka 2nd clutch na pero puro eggs wala nabubuo...
Can this case be a case of related stock meaning magkapatid?
or possible din ba nabubulabog sila
kulang po siguro sa preparation .
Bong 523- PPO Lieutenant Colonel
Re: COCKATIELS
by Bong 523 Thu Apr 02, 2009 7:43 am
Sir Leo bong po nakapag PM na ako sa inyo minsan tungkol sa mga tiels ganda ng mga tiels nyo marami na .leotino wrote:These are my latest chix na ka wean pa lang. Pwede ring pang out. Anak sila nung lutino pearl hen ko.
Bong 523- PPO Lieutenant Colonel
Share ko po mga Cockatiels ko
by Bong 523 Thu Apr 02, 2009 7:52 am
Mga young at ordinary lang sila
Thank you po .
Thank you po .
Bong 523- PPO Lieutenant Colonel
isko_3- PPO Private
Re: COCKATIELS
by Bong 523 Thu Apr 02, 2009 5:14 pm
Sir Allan thank you po .Kayo po ba sir mat mga tiels pa . Tnxacruz wrote:ang gaganda!!!
Bong 523- PPO Lieutenant Colonel
Re: COCKATIELS
by Bong 523 Thu Apr 02, 2009 5:18 pm
Interesado po ako sir isko pero hindi pa po sa ngayon 9 pcs. po yan pero sa isang breeder lang galing .Tnx sa interes hindi parin po sigura kung mga hen o cock sila .isko_3 wrote:hi sir bong 523
baka interested kayo swap? hehe
Bong 523- PPO Lieutenant Colonel
Re: COCKATIELS
by Bong 523 Thu Apr 02, 2009 5:35 pm
Share ko po ang pair ko na di makapamisa ng eggs nila .
Thank you .
Thank you .
Last edited by Bong 523 on Thu Apr 02, 2009 6:34 pm; edited 1 time in total
Bong 523- PPO Lieutenant Colonel
Re: COCKATIELS
by Dammam Thu Apr 02, 2009 5:50 pm
Sir Bong, ako marami pero hindi nagpaparis paris, may posibilidad bang mga bata pa sila? Iyong mga nagparis ko ay bugok naman ang mga itlog. Inis na nga ako eh!
Dammam- Global Moderator
Re: COCKATIELS
by Bong 523 Thu Apr 02, 2009 6:31 pm
Sir Jerry Good morning po musta na sir. Habang binabasa ko ko sir ang post mo na ngingiti ako parehas tayo sir . Pag nabalitaan ko na may mga eggs tuwang tuwa ako tapos bilangan ko ng ilang days pag bugok na naman kunsumisyonDammam wrote:Sir Bong, ako marami pero hindi nagpaparis paris, may posibilidad bang mga bata pa sila? Iyong mga nagparis ko ay bugok naman ang mga itlog. Inis na nga ako eh!
alam mo naman sitwasyon natin sir kaya pasensiya lang basta wag lang kalimutan pakainin at painumin paris din siguro sir ng ibang mga bird iba yun prepared at talagang asikaso . eh ako sir kesa makunsumisyon sa kabibilin magnahap na lang ako muna ng ordinary na mura hehehe dadami din sila kesa maubos sa txt at tawag hehehe .
Sakin sir malaking bagay na sabihin sakin ng tatay ko yun mga tiels sumasagot na sa sipol nya mag isa lang kasi siya sa bahay . yun ang hindi ko maibigay na maibibigay ng mga pet na binigay ko sa kanya .
Thank you
sorry sa picture
Bong 523- PPO Lieutenant Colonel
Bong 523- PPO Lieutenant Colonel
Re: COCKATIELS
by Bong 523 Thu Apr 02, 2009 6:42 pm
Share po ulit old picture ng tiels ng anak ko pero wala na samin lumagpas po ng boundery nakalabas ng bintana .
Thank you
Thank you
Bong 523- PPO Lieutenant Colonel
Re: COCKATIELS
by daphiel217 Mon Apr 06, 2009 2:10 am
Question! It's the month of April. Is breeding recommended this month ?
daphiel217- PPO Captain
jet- Forum Moderator
Re: COCKATIELS
by isko_3 Tue Apr 07, 2009 11:02 am
help po sa chick ko.. medyo luwa po ung mata first day ko nakitang ganun ung mata nya kanina lang umaga.. pero ung 3 pa niyang kapatid wla naman pong problema.. sana matulungan nyo po ako kung ano magandang gawin..
isko_3- PPO Private
Re: COCKATIELS
by sweetlady143 Tue Apr 07, 2009 12:16 pm
panu po malalaman kuing
babae or lalaki ang cockatiel???
meron po kaming dalawa eh
sweetlady143- PPO 1st Lieutenant
Re: COCKATIELS
by isko_3 Tue Apr 14, 2009 3:49 pm
sweetlady143 wrote:
panu po malalaman kuing
babae or lalaki ang cockatiel???
meron po kaming dalawa eh
post nyo po picture para matulungan po kayo ng mga taga cockatiel section
isko_3- PPO Private
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